Increasing environmental sensitivity with the epidemic has enabled brands to allocate more space to sustainable products in their collections. The rate of products claimed to be sustainable in some brands exceeded 50 percent, and this situation was also used as a marketing element. The commitments announced one after the other have mobilized the supervisory authorities in Europe. Organizations have started a study to determine whether the clothes really meet the sustainability criteria as stated. According to the information obtained, Swedish H&M, the world’s second largest fast fashion giant with 4,667 stores in 77 countries, was fined hundreds of millions of dollars for failing to fully prove the sustainability conditions it presented on its labels. Another giant French Decathlon also got its share from this control.
‘Ads’ ended after
The two chains have committed to more clearly informing consumers and reorganized labels and in-store information. During our visit to the Turkish stores of both brands to observe the situation, we saw that the regulations were implemented quickly. While the labels were rearranged, the sustainability ads on the walls were also taken down. Now, it is working on a technology and regulation that will make traceability possible with QR code. İTHİB Board Member and Textile Sector Board Sustainability Committee Chairman Sultan Tepe stated that this issue was one of the important agenda items at the sustainability summit held in the Netherlands in September. Tepe said, “With the QR code on the labels, all processes from the cotton used in the product to the employees, from the dyehouse to the place where it is produced can be monitored. It is easy to say, but it requires a serious IT in terms of technology. The Netherlands wants to both develop its software and sell it to the world. There are other countries trying to do this as well. Some progress has been made. But the next stage is financing. Because to provide these, serious resources are required. But in 1-2 years all labels will be transformed. Brands will not be able to say that we are sustainable so easily. They will have serious checks. As of 2024, everyone will use these technologies for the future of taxes within the scope of the Green Deal.”
There is preparation for regulation
Another person who attended the summit was Nilgün Özdemir, Chairman of the Board of Ekoteks Laboratory and Gözetim Hizmetleri A.Ş. Özdemir explained that the traceability of the products will be possible with the chips attached to the clothes in the near future. Özdemir said, “The one who cannot prove its traceability cannot be called sustainable”. Özdemir stated that even now, consumers can request documents for the product claimed to be sustainable from the store they go to, adding, “The consumer can show the product and say ‘show me, have it verified’. If he can’t verify it, the brand will have to remove it. Many brands have removed these labels because they claim their products are sustainable and fail to prove it. The product must be traceable. Regulations are currently being prepared for this. A standard will be established. For now, the consumer can request it from the sales points,” he said. On the other hand, this issue will be one of the important agenda items in the symposium that will be held next week, Monday, October 10, by İHKİB. In the event called “Sustainability in the digitalized textile world towards 2030”, which will be held in cooperation with Ekoteks, 27 speakers will discuss the regulations, preparations and solution proposals in this field.
Those who can get the certificate will be able to advertise
TGSD Board Member Cem Altan stated that the EU has determined certain criteria within itself and brands have to comply with this. Pointing out that brands will not be able to advertise as ‘my product is sustainable’ from now on, “only if it is recycled, if it used organic cotton or obtained from sustainable fibers or if it produced in a green factory, if it meets the specified criteria, it will be able to get a certificate and put that label. Otherwise, my product will not be able to advertise because it is sustainable.”